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Four Seasons of Green

Tales of an Urban Farmer

Transplanting and Cold Frames

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Once the roots of the plants under the lights began to show, it was time to transplant the seedlings to pots. It seemed like a simple enough process...

I had to decide whether to continue using a soilless medium or potting soil. This is my first time using soilless mixtures and with soilless mixes at some point you have to add some nutrients - this was a little intimidating to me. I chose to continue with coconut coir as there were apparently less issues mildew and mold. In my excitement I knocked over a tray of seedlings and lost 50 plants - good thing I had plenty of time to start them again! Unfortunately I also used too much plant food and burned most of the remaining plants too. Luckily most plants recovered when I thoroughly rinsed each and every single one of them very gingerly. I am very careful with feeding the plants now... even more than before. I have doubled the dilution to make sure that I dont over do it. I figure it is easier to give less and add more later than give too much and risk loosing the plant - or spend hours soaking and rinsing again. 

 IMPORTANT NOTE: do not transplant sunflowers, either sow directly or start in a large compostable pot to plant. The stem becomes weak and limp if you do. I was so sad to learn this the hard way. However the sunflowers did keep growing, albeit a little twisty and bloomed when they were very small. 

Although it was exciting to have so many seeds start and watch them grow, they quickly became too large to fit under the lights. We had such nice weather early this year (end of March begining of April)  that I started putting the plants outside to harden them off. (More info on hardening off: link 1 and  2.) Conveniently I found a heavy duty wooden framed box at the side of the road one day (and broke my car shoving it in the backseat). This box in conjunction with a glass window I  found on freecycle, made a perfect mini green house for the plants. On warm sunny days I would pull away the extra plastic I used to line the box, in order to vent the mini green house. Eventually taking the glass completely off during the day.   Over night and on cold days I kept the plastic wrapped around the glass to keep in as much warmth as could be solar generated. The fist few weeks and on very cold nights we would bring the box into the garage to protect the plants from cold damage.

At the begining of May I made a variety of cold frames (additional link) and mini greenhouses to get the plants into the ground.


Preparing the sun flower bed and lean to green house (using sliding glass doors I bought from the Restore)


Giving the sunflowers a jump start. I have since learned location is everything. These are on a fence line, convenient location, where they receive morning and noon sun... they are growing tall and doing well, however, compared to the sunflowers I have growing in full sun their stems are very thin (compared when both sets of plants were about 2 feet tall).


The materials were are all reclaimed: wood from art show stands and an old bunk bed, glass from Freecycle. After staring at the pieces for a little bit I came up with a simple lean-to style of greenhouse. Cold nights I covered the open area with a plastic sheeting (also reclaimed from a garden centre)


Black Cover: a cold frame which contains carrots. The carrots need a lot of warmth to germinate, to speed up the process I purchased a biodegradable, breathable cover. Great for decreasing the amount of weeds and increasing germination rates.
Window with the white tape: simple lean to design for pumpkins
White A-FRAME is reclaimed gazebo structure poles duct taped together. The glass just leans on the either side. 


The peas did exceptionally well under these, however the ones that I did not have under the glass caught up in a couple of weeks. I guess I see if it made any difference in pea production in a few weeks.

 
These are the lettuce beds... however, with the advantage of writing this many weeks later I can tell you that the lettuce is suffering the same as the sunflowers did. Yes they are growing and we are harvesting -but it has been slow growth and minimal production. I have pots in the front of the house, which is south facing and receives full sun - this lettuce grew more in 2 weeks that the lettuce against the fences did in almost 2 months! (Just FYI)

I have made a serious effort to plant the same plants in various areas in my yards, in the ground and in pots to compare which plants do best where... I'll keep you posted....

Last Updated ( Thursday, 24 June 2010 08:59 )
 

Preparing Your Plot

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It is so great to be back in action and feeling better... 3 hours weeding and building trellises, an hour of yoga and meditation, and now finishing up with writing,  today has been a great change in pace. Being that I am so behind in writing about this process - I am going back to writing about preparing the plot for a sustainable urban farm - rather than discussing what I have done today.

However, I will start with a pic of the backyard section of my urban farm from 2 weeks ago (reasonably recent)...

So how did it get there from here.... to the pic above?

A lot of help and hard work...

 

Recipe:

1. Make a plan - figure out what your family would most enjoy and compare it against what will effectively grow in your climate area (check your plant hardiness zone here), what you have space for, and difficulty. Also as you are planning out your garden keep in mind companion planting for insect diversity and crop rotation for next year as well.
***This plan should be done in the fall prior to the season you would like to grow. This way if you need to start any seedling indoors you will have planned for it. However, you can always choose to pick-up plants from green houses to transplant if you missed the opportunity to start your own from seed. I will say starting from seed is a considerable amount less expensive than purchasing the plants from a nursery.

2. Call all your friends to come help... say please and offer chocolate


3. If you have a large space to convert into a garden rent a rototiller from Home Depot (if you rent near the end of the day you can keep it longer for the same price - even better if you rent on a Sunday evening of a holiday Monday - Monday is free). If you have a small space you can use a combination of tools including spades and garden hoes
(the mini dump truck and hula-hoops are optional - stopping to admire the worms: mandatory)


4. Clear out the space you have plotted out- here is a lesson I learned the very very hard way: remove the sod, do not just chop it, turn it over, or try to bury it... it will come back. Make sure to remove any dandelion roots or other weeds from your soil.


5. I used the square foot garden method - intensive organic gardening. I encourage you to also research permaculture gardening, which I came across as I was researching organic intensive farming and am continuing to learn more about for next year (I'll share as I learn). For the square foot method I used 4x4 plots. Many people build frames or boxes for raised beds to create a more aesthetic look, and better containment of the soil and plants. Mounded beds are a frugal alternative, and use less supplies. I chose a raised bed for the carrots, as they needed extra compost in my clay yard to grow, but everything else is a quasi mounded bed.

  

We marked out 4x4 foot plots with a 1 foot path width between each plot for weeding and tending, using bamboo skewers and  twine. Once we had the 4x4's marked, we then market 1x1 foot squares within the 4x4 plots.

Notice the clumps of grass... lazy, lazy, lazy - actually I really thought it wouldn't matter - it mattered. A metal rake is helpful and collecting the grass clumps to remove them.

6. Soil PH - and type of soil. Ok so I did not test my soil like I am supposed to. I figured that I was laying down a tonne of topsoil and compost so it didn't matter - it did. So I recommend testing and adjusting as necessary.  (How to test your soil and why)

7. Compost. We have been buying compost to put in the garden, then as I read about sustainable farming/gardening/permaculture and it was put to me that it is not sustainable to take compost from outside your garden - neither is it economical. It doesn't require a lot of space to make your own compost and there are many forms of composters one can use. Most libraries have a plethora of books on the subject, and the internet has many articles as well. If you are in an apartment or small space vermicomposting may be for you (using worms in an indoor composting unit) - to purchase a unit and worms contact Cathy's Crawly Composters, or many hardware stores and municipalities sell commercial backyard composters - usually black and either round or square. We built out own from re-bar and chicken wire, not very pretty but it is effective. (Here are concepts for a variety of DIY composters).

The garden space was ready and waiting for tenants....

 Resources...
(From my personal collection of books) 

The Plant Propagator's Bible - Miranda Smith (ISBN 1-59486-448-9)
Full colour book covering how to propagate everything from bulbs to vines, tree grafting too!

New Book of Herbs - Jekka Mcvicar (ISBN 0-7894-8942-2) 
A colourful book with one herb per page, full description of propagation, where to plant, how to care for the plant , harvesting, medicinal and culinary uses.

Magic and Medicine of Plants - Readers Digest (ISBN 0-89577-221-3)
Full colour book with photo images and sketches of North American herbs, shrubs and trees discussing folk lore and medicinal uses of plants.

The Beginner's Guide to Edible Herbs: 26 Herb's Everyone Should Grow& Enjoy - Charles W. G. Smith (ISBN 987-1-60342-538-5)
Full colour book of how to grow, cook and preserve the most popular herbs

The Edible Garden - Sunset Books (ISBN-13 978-0-376-03170-9)
Fantastically inspiring layouts for mixed vegetable gardens, intensive gardening ideas and common crop descriptions (full colour) 

Grow Great Grub: Organic Food from Small Spaces - Gayla Trail  (ISBN 978-0-307-45201-6)
Full colour book comparing popular produce for garden vs container growing - VERY INFORMATIVE for those wishing to grow veggies and fruits in containers

The Canadian Edible Garden: Vegetables, Herbs, Fruits & Seeds - Alison Beck (ISBN-13 978-1-55105-579-4)
Full colour covers how to grow popular fruits and veggies in Canada, as well as culinary uses and recipes

All New Square Foot Gardening: Grow More in Less Space - Mel Bartholomew (ISBN 1-59186-202-7)
My personal bible on how to cram as much food into a square foot as possible. Very easy to understand instructions, lots of colour photos, sketches, and building instructions - a must have!

How to Grow More Vegetables: Than you ever thought possible on less land than you can imagine 7th Edition - John Jeavons
(ISBN 978-1-58008-796-4)
Black and white, information based - a lot of charts and science behind the growing - more advanced gardening

The New Self-Sufficient Gardener: The complete guide to planning, growing, storing and preserving your own garden produce -
John Seymour (ISBN 978-0-75666-2898-7)
Very comprehensive,  colour plates and ink sketches, really does cover everything from the thought process of planning, propagation, extending seasons, storage, and an enormous variety of produce detailed. Highly recommend this book.

The Self-Sufficient Life and How to Live it: The Complete Back to Basics Guide - John Seymour (ISBN 978-0-7566-5450-4)
Way beyond the garden, but an interesting book none-the-less. If you are interested in increasing your self-sufficiency in other areas (solar power, slar hot water heating, wind power, composting toilets, cold storage...) definitely a good read. If you are a home-schooler then this resource explains in great detail handicrafts, woodworking and animal husbandry.

 

Have a resource you would like me to add? - email it to me and I will post it... This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

Last Updated ( Friday, 04 June 2010 17:59 )
 

In the Beginning

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I am not completely new to gardening, I have an education in ecology, but bio-intensive urban farming is a new adventure for me.

In the beginning - years ago I used to find a patch of lawn without grass throw some seeds out and say 'good luck!' If anything grew, which inevitably something would,  that was great. I graduated to something a little more organized with 6 raised beds (this was 7 years ago) in the backyard of a small town-home. But I used the same low-intensive method of throw some seeds out there - maybe plant a few seedlings and wish them well. Two years ago was my first attempt at an intentional vegetable and herb garden. I thought out what I would plant and where I should place things. It was a small corner plot with carrots, strawberries, dill, and thyme.They did pretty well, except the clay was so impacted around the carrots I had a really hard time getting them out!

Last year I opted for something a little more formal and modeled my garden after the farmers I had seen just outside of town. Of course my rows were much shorter. I sowed the seeds directly - probably a little late into the season, and probably should have watered the garden a little more... We had a great ever-blooming crop of raspberries and strawberries. The peas did not produce much. The cantaloupe, watermelon and pumpkin never matured enough to make anything larger than a baseball sized melon. The beans did well, and my dill took over the garden. I had a couple of rows of corn, which we did enjoy over a meal or two. The lettuce did not do well at all, but the swiss chard and kale made up for that. The carrots, I had learned from previous year were not going to do well in the clay and I had converted an old wood toybox into the carrot box - where they did fantastic!

This year I decided to start things off a little early to give everything a fair shake. Conventional wisdom suggested 'peat-pots,' but I had remembered reading about the ecological effects of harvesting peat...
http://www.naturallifemagazine.com/0712/asknlpeat.html

http://www.saveourpeatbogs.com/Pages/ourimpact/ourimpact.htm

http://www.ciwem.org/policy/policies/peat.asp

http://www.herinst.org/wingecarribee/mining/impacts3.html

The short of the long is that using peat moss to start plants is like clear cutting a forest for mulching a garden... The damage done to peat bogs is reprehensible and though a bog may technically be a 'renewable resource' it take hundreds of years for that bog to regenerate and the immediate impact on the environment (local and global) is significant. I knew I needed an alternative... Luckily at Canadian Tire there was an alternative... Coconut Coir Pellets (like Jiffy Peat Pellets - but made of Coconut Coir). A greener choice for sure! But it was imported so it wasn't the greenest choice. At the time I still wasn't educated enough to make a greener choice so I purchased the Coir Pellets, some packets of organic seed and went home to get started. I am still researching a better alternative, and experimenting with different ways of sprouting - more to follow on that in a later article.

Initially I started with a set of 50 coir pellets in a covered seed starting tray... 

At the end of each row of 5, I labeled what seeds were planted and how many out of 5. For example if in row 1, I planted 5 cucumber I would write in permanent marker on a piece of masking tape "Cucumber April 2 (1-5)" Indicating it was a cucumber planted on April 2 in all 5 pellets in the row. If I only did 3, I would write "Cucumber April 2 (1-3)" and on the opposite side of the row would seed 2 other plants eg "Pumpkin April 2 (3-5)" indicating which pellets pumpkins were in - dont mix up the pellets.

My pellet seeding quickly expanded to 200 pellets, that weren't getting enough light. I read an article - I believe in Mother Earth News about setting up your own plant lighting system with shop lights from a hardware store. I headed out to Home Depot picked up a ballast and two fluorescent plant/aquarium tube lights for under $50. The same set up at the hydroponics store was almost $300. I realized when I got home, this was too small and pick up another ballast and two more lights.

It was easy enough to set up in our unfinished basement - I created a knot and pulley system with a little rope thrown over the open beams in the basement ceiling, and used a trucker's hitch* to adjust the height. This way as the plants grow I can retract the lights to give more space as well.

(* tie one end of the rope to the ballast, throw over the beam support, tie trucker's hitch, feed rope through second side of the ballast - like the guy did with the piano leg -  pulley through the hitch and tie off securely!)

 I noticed I was loosing a lot of light  so I secured some recycled aluminum paper around the lights and plants. This helped a lot! I did the ends as well to create a fully enclosed (mostly - some spaces left for venting) reflector box. As you may notice in the photo there are tea towels laying over parts of the cover... because I kept adding plants (I am at a few hundred now...) I didn't put them on the containers according to days to germinate - which I HIGHLY RECOMMEND, so I had to keep some in the dark, while others were ready for the light. The seed packets usually list days to germinate. Try to match the germination dates when filling a tray so you don't have fold tea cloths over parts of your tray.

For the past couple of weeks I have enjoyed watching the plants grow...kept notes so I can improve the system as I go...

Next article: Up-potting and the tragedy that ensued.... :(

Last Updated ( Friday, 16 April 2010 08:40 )
 

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